Tarantulas

 
The information presented here are taken from the care sheets prepared by:
[1]South African tarantula society
[2]Spiderfreaks.org
[3]Tarantulacages.com
[4]spacechickinscaresheets.blogspot.com
[5]http://www.grovecityagway.com
[6]http://www.petbugs.com

Scientific Name:Grammostola pulchra
Common Name: Brazilian black tarantula
Type: Terrestrial
Adult Size: 5 - 6.5 in.[1] 4.7 - 5.9 in. [2] 5 to 6 inches when fully grown.[3]
Growth: Slow Growth
Humidity: Average[1], 60%[2] 60 to 80%. All tarantulas that have at least a 3" legspan may drink from a shallow, wide water dish. Spiderlings will require light misting to drink droplets of water. Mist cage regularly to maintain humidity [3].
Temperament: Docile
Origin: Brazil and Uruguay
Life Span: 20 years+
Temperature: Day temp.: 22-28°C, Night temp.: 20-25°C [2] 75 to 80 Fahrenheit [3] 75 to 85 Fahrenheit [4]
Activity:Estimated as more active than it’s cousin G. rosea
Handling: Yes, but not to often. Place your hand slowly in the front of the tarantula and push it gently in the abdomen. Stay calm while you handle the tarantula.
Food: Spiderlings can eat pinheads, wood lice and other small articulated animals, while bigger tarantulas (from juvenile) can be feed with crickets, locusts and (Edited)roaches.[2] Spiderlings will eat pinhead crickets, and other small insects. Adults eat crickets, other large insects such as lobster roaches.[3]
Breeding: These animals reproduce through sexual mating. This means that you will need both a female and a male. The male will walk over to the female and “drum” with his pedipalps. If the female is ready she will respond. Then the male uses the hooks on his legs to grab the female’s fangs, and then he will place the sperm on her. After this he will make a, often clumsy, retreat. I recommend you to reed more about this before you try to breed.
Terarium: Spiderlings can be kept in small boxes and jars (just remember to make holes for ventilation), while bigger individuals should be kept in a 30x30x30cm terrarium [2] Spiderlings can live in a small clear plastic deli-container with air holes poked with a pin. Use a small amount of substrate such as vermiculite, peat moss or coco fiber. Adults will live in a Large Terrestrial Cage Floor space is more important than height. No decorations are really needed, but you can add a log, or cork bark. Always house tarantulas seperately[3]. Something that keeps on the humidity. I will recommend unfertilized peat. Since this specie sometimes likes to dig, the substrate should be about 10cm thick.[2] 3 to 5 inches of peat moss, or potting soil.[4]
Comment: Often estimated as a good beginner tarantula as it tends to be calm. The genus Grammostola was described for the first time by Simon in 1892. G. pulchra was described for the first time by Mello-Leitão in 1921
--------------------------------------------------------------------- Grammostola pulchra is one of the most sought after tarantulas in the trade. They are infrequently available due to the difficult in breeding them and their slow growth rate. Since they are very docile and beautiful, when G. pulchras become available, they usually are bought quickly. G. pulchras are a lovely solid velvety black color. They are known as one of the most docile tarantulas that there is. A water bowl should be given when the tarantula reaches 1.5". A bottlecap is ideal for maintaining hydration while keeping the tarantula's booklungs out of the water. Prior to reaching 1.5" droplets of water on the side of its vivarium should be provided for hydration. G. pulchra will usually relish crickets, cockroaches, and mealworms. --------- [5] DIET: -Crickets are the best source of food for tarantulas, but some adults will eat pinkies and if large enough may even eat a whole mouse. If crickets are used you can feed them a few times a week, but if mice are used it will keep them full for a few weeks. HOUSING: -They are fairly inactive so a 10-gallon aquarium is more than enough space. Decorate with large, sturdy hiding places, reptile vines, cork bark hollows, dead leaves and climbing branches. Most substrates are suitable, but no standing water should be in the substrate except for the water dish.